Siem Reap: General Impressions

The food in Cambodia was amazing. Every Cambodian meal I had was delicious. They used a lot of meat and rice, like the Chinese, but it was prepared differently. Nothing was fired and the meat was always somewhat spicy. It was not spicy like curry, it was just a hint for flavor.

The roads in Cambodia were absolutely horrible. One or two roads around the Old French Quarter were somewhat decent, but outside of that, the newest major road was barely chip and seal. The road we took into the country side was what I assume to be a high way. The government had started work on improving it. Construction was even more unorganized then back in the States. There were no lanes blocked off by orange cones, just piles of gravel dumped haphazardly in the middle of the road. Everyone traveling on that road would just have to figure out how to get around it. Later down the road it turned to dirt. Interestingly enough, the Cambodian government still had a toll booth on the dirt road. Whether the road was "paved" or not did not improved the condition of the road for the most part. Driving was often slow because there were so many pot holes and other giant imperfections. No matter where you were, I don't think there was much rule of the road. I don't remember seeing any traffic signs or lines on the road. It was more or less free for all.

The Cambodian people seemed pretty nice (unless they were trying to get money out of you). Our driver, Tong, was very polite and helpful. In the restaurants, the waiters/waitresses seemed to enjoy interacting with customers. At one, the waiter thought Wes and Francesca were related. We thought this was humorous as they look nothing alike. Wes pointed out to the waiter that they even have different ancestral backgrounds. The waiter then took interest in the fact Americans have diverse backgrounds. When I told him I was Scottish and German he asked if I could speak Scottish. He seemed very disappointed and confused when I told him Scots speak English. And on the topic of language, everyone seemed to speak English pretty well. Most had only had a slight accent and rarely were we ever asked to reword our sentences into simpler phrases. Even the children were nice (except for the ones described below). If we passed them while they were playing they would often wave and say "Hello." In the markets the vendors were less aggressive then in China or even Hong Kong. However, out at the temples, the vendors act pretty desperate. Typically, you would tell a vendor "I already have one" to get them off your back (telling them you don't want it invites them to try to convince you otherwise). On a couple of occasions the vendors replied "But you haven't bought one from me!" A common thing all of them would do is ask "Where are you from?" When I replied that I was American, they would also list random facts such as the capital is Washington D.C., the biggest state is Alaska, etc. It was almost always in the same order too.

The corruption in Cambodia was pretty bad and became very apparent. Cambodia is a democracy with freedoms, but still carries the burden of corruption like most other developing nations. Tong would speak freely on the subject when we asked him. At the temples you need a license to give tours. However, there were plenty of people without license trying to give tours to people. They wouldn't ask for money until the very end. To do this, they have to pay off the police. The same goes for selling things at temples, you have to pay the police. On a couple occasions I even saw the police standing with the vendor (my guess either making sure he gets his cut or was being paid a little extra for protection). At the Bayon temple we even had a police officer try to give us a tour. They are pretty aggressive and often catch you if you try to sneak away. Fortunately, we managed to lose that police officer and did not run into him again.

Often times you would see kids selling stuff, mostly at the temples but some on the streets of Siem Reap. When I say kids, I mean easily under 10 years old an no supervision what so ever. They would have simple and small items like post cards, bracelets, fans, and magnets. They were just as aggressive, if not more, then the adult vendors. At Angkor Wat one little girl was very aggressive and followed me around while I was looking for where Tong parked. Like everyone else she asked me "Where are you from?" which after responding that I was from the States she very rapidly said all kinds of facts about the states. She ended with "Your President is Obama. You know Obama? I am his daughter. I am Sasha! You need postcards!" Fortunately at that point I finally found Tong and the little girl left with out me having to reply to such an odd argument. Another argument the kids would use, and use frequently, is that they have to pay off the police. Sadly this is true. I never found out if what the children were doing was technically illegal (it would certainly be for the parents if this was happening in the States) but law or no law they system would work the same. The police are underpaid and everyone wants money.

On the topic of money, the way currency is used in Cambodia (or at least Siem Reap, but I have a feeling it is the same in most parts of the country) is quite interesting. Cambodian current is called the riel and is US$1 to about 4,130 riel. I was looking forward to having to have over 100,000 in currency on me. However, when I got to Siem Reap, everything was quoted in US dollars. In fact, the ATMs only gave out US dollars. The visa and the tickets to the temples, both from the government, were paid for in American dollars. It was the preferred currency. Even though cash registers everywhere were full of American bills, the American coins were no where to be seen. So if there were ever cents involved (for example I got ice cream for US$1.50) the change was given in riel. Everyone just rounded US$0.25 to 1,000 riel. By the end of my trip, I was used to using two different currencies in the same transaction.

The poverty in Siem Reap was pretty bad, or at least it seemed to us Americans. There were a lot of shacks. The poorest were out in the country side. Tong said that if we wanted to see poor people we would have to drive about 80km out of the city (he didn't think those living in shacks in the city were poor, he called them "normal"). The area around the river was the poorest we saw, and it was pretty poor. When we got off the boat a small group of children started to follow us. There were a couple adults not too far away yelling at them, and each time they yelled the children got more aggressive for money. One little girl seemed rather shy and didn't say anything. She just pointed to the empty water bottle I was carrying. I noticed she had a bag full of empty plastic bottles. I handed it to her and she seemed pretty happy. There was one little boy who kept asking for money. After we got in the car, he banged on the window asking for one dollar. Despite the depressing first impression, we did see a lot of hope. At one point we ventured out of the Old French Quarter to see what the typical life was for a local. There was a surprising amount of development hidden from the main road. There were apartment buildings (granted no where near the standard we are used to, but significantly better then a dirt floor). Schools were also everywhere. Even in the floating village, the most common building (aside from a house) was a school. Friday was the only school day we were there and the schools we saw open were overflowing with children. Cambodians are definitely eager to develop and are making progress on that front.

Yangshuo: Day Three

We planned on meeting outside the hostel at 11am to head out for breakfast. Since we could only fit four to a room the French were in one room while the rest of us where in another. Nolwenn, Marie, and Adrien also were leaving that night since they has classes on Monday they did not want to miss. So they were going to check out at 11am while we gathered together. However, we encountered another problem with the staff at the Yo Yao Hotel. One of the staff members checked them out by looking at the room to see if anything was wrong. They found that part of the toilet seat was broken. The French knew about this but only discovered it late the night before which was the first time they used it. The staff was refusing to return their deposit (50 yuan) due to damages. The real suspicious thing was that when the room was inspected, the staff member went straight to the toilet and looked at nothing else. After a long long session of arguing (mostly through Mandy since the staff could only speak broken English at best) a older man came in. We assumed he was the husband of the lady we were arguing with the most and the owner. He seemed to be more co-operative then anyone else we had dealt with at this hotel. He just said that they should pay what ever they feel like they should. The French decided to split the deposit and take only 25 yuan back. The rest of us decided we should check out too as we have been annoyed enough with this place.

After successfully checking out of the Yo Yao Hotel, we went down the street a little ways to a restaurant we saw that had dumplings to get breakfast. It was very good and again cheap (12 yuan for 12 dumplings). While eating breakfast various locals would come by and try to sell us stuff. For the most part we would turn them away. But one local was trying to offer to be our tour guide for the day. Since we didn't have much of a plan yet we agreed to hire her. She charged us 50 yuan for the whole day split between the seven of us (that would be about US$1.10 each). We then rented bikes (ranging from 10 yuan to 20 yuan for the whole day) so we could go out and see stuff in the country side.

Our tour guide, Linda, took us outside of the town. This was the first time that we had left the few blocks that tourist usually stay in. The town of Yangshuo was a little bit bigger then I had assumed but it was still fairly small (maybe a tad smaller then Orrville). In any case, it did not take us long to get into farming land. All of Yangshuo and the surrounding areas are noticeable richer then most of China. It is still very poor, but at least everything is well maintained and people at the very least seem to have something to do to stay busy. The farming in the area seemed very traditional. All the farms were perfectly well kept with everything planted in very nice rows. The amazing thing was that it was all done by hand. There were no tractors, no machinery, just men with simple gardening tools. All the plots were way too small for any modern day equipment to be practical. A lot of the famers were trying to sell their goods either in town or along side the road. The popular one was oranges but it didn't look like much else was in season (a couple of places did have strawberries). The condition of the roads varied greatly, and often had no subtly transition. One minute you would be on recently paved road that obviously had a lot of time and resources put into it (not like the chip and seal stuff we have in the country back home) and the next minute you would be on a dirt road with no gravel. Most of the houses were small two story brick buildings. The brick was the local imperfect hand made type, and the few buildings we saw under construction seemed to be progressing very slowly (I think they were all individuals building the houses). Farm animals seemed to roam about freely. I saw plenty of oxen go between houses and on into fields. They seemed well trained though. At one point we passed a local taking 3 oxen (including a calf) down the road. He walked with one of the oxen while the other two followed and didn't seem to care that we were riding by them on bikes. Chickens were a common sight too. They seemed just as comfortable hanging out with humans as they did themselves.

At one point we came to a Buddhist temple, Jianshan Temple. There wasn't anything unique to this temple but since we had a guide with us she explained a lot of things, like how to pray. You kneel before the statue and bow three times for good luck. Each time we bowed a monk near by would bang a gong. It was pretty neat to finally understand what was going on.

We continued on to look into some water caves near by but ultimately decided to head back to Yangshuo since it was getting late. We needed to grab dinner in time for the French to make their bus. We dropped our bikes off and on the way to the restaurant we checked in to a different hotel. It was not a nice as the night before but we got two rooms with two large beds each and a private bathroom for each room at a cheaper price so it was not that bad. We ended up eating dinner at the same place we had breakfast at since it was so good. The staff there really liked us as we were able to talk to them about celebrities (they really liked Brittney Spears and Michael Jackson) and we helped them with some English translations. After dinner Nolwenn, Marie, and Adrien left while Kalen, Chase, Mandy and myself wondered around town to enjoy Yangshuo at night. Night is when the markets become real active and the street is accented with all the neon lights. After a couple of hours checking out different places were went to bed.

Album:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2282959&id=7725102&l=8c380

I also added video to the last post. I have been experimenting around with it on my camera and by no means is the video that amazing. I missed videoing a lot of the cool stuff.

Yangshuo: Day One

Over the last weekend I decided to take a trip into south China to a town called Yangshuo in the Guangxi Province. I went with Chase, Kalen, and a local Chase knew, Mandy. We left CUHK on Friday to go to Shenzhen to catch the train to Guilin. The train was a night train meaning that most of the trip was done through the night. It was scheduled to leave at 5:50pm and arrive in Guilin at 6:00am the next day. The train station was very busy and had to wait in line for a while before we could purchase tickets. We got the highest class of seats, soft sleeper. This meant that the four of us would get a cabin to ourselves and each of use had a bed. It was a very small cabin and the beds were bunked but it was a lot more comfortable (and safer) then any of the other classes. On the train there were a few other foreigners but it was mostly locals (and a lot of military officers) traveling. There was a restaurant car on the train which we spent some time in the evening in. The food was cheap but questionable. All of us tried to go to bed pretty early but it was difficult on the train. One thing that was obvious while taking the train across the country was how many people there are. We rode for several hours outside of the city before I lost sight of a high rise. There were also numerous slum villages of just shacks which I did not see much of since the sun set soon after leaving Shenzhen. Many famers had plots of land that were just the space between the nearest building or road to the rail track, often being only a few feet wide. I saw very little space being wasted.