The English Language

I have found it amazing how common the English language is. It is spoken in different degrees (Hong Kong and parts of China seems to be the worst) but it is nevertheless used as the default language. My trip to Cambodia and Malaysia had some of the best non-native English speakers. In general, when two people do not know what language to use, English is always the common one. Even the European exchange students use English to talk to each other. Unless they are the same nationality, English is used. I find that interesting because often English is no one's first language.

The other interesting thing I have noticed with the English language is how often it is used by children. There is a spot on campus that I often walk through to get to class that families often take their children to play. Most of the time I see little kids running around, shouting at each other in English. Just listening you would not know that they are Chinese. They even use their English names. The oddest occurrence was just the other day while I was on my way to class. I say Chinese parents trying to teach their daughter how to ride a tricycle. The little girl was having trouble figuring out how to move the peddles to make the tricycle go. The father and mother were explaining to her how to move her feet in Chinese using hand gestures. However, the little girl only responded in English and asked questions about how to do it in English. I find it interesting but not surprising that the little kids I see have less of an accent then students my age. The rate of development and the rate of outside involvement (i.e. globalization) real shows up here through the use of the English language.

My Absence

I know I have not written in a while. My professors wanted papers and for me to fill in some bubbles with a number 2 pencil. That is just about done. I have one class and one test left. Since I leave next Thursday, this means I have one more week to do fun and exciting things. I will also have the motivation to write since there is nothing left for me to write to my professors.

Trains, Boats, Buses, Cable Cars, and One Big Buddha

Last Sunday I went to the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island where the "Big Buddha" is. I went with Brian and a couple other of his friends from the States. There is a train stop at the base of the mountain that has a cable car that goes strait to the monastery. We, however, decided to take the long route which turn out to be a mistake. We first took the train from CUHK to the tip of Kowloon to find the ferry to Lantau. We discovered that the only place to get a ferry to Lantau was at the Central Piers on Hong Kong Island. So we took a ferry across to Central and then figured out which boat we needed. We waited 30 minutes until the ferry we wanted arrived. The boat ride was then about an hour long. Once we got to Lantau we had to take a bus to get to the monastery. This was another hour long ride. The reason the bus took so long is that Lantau is very mountainous. Even though the length of the bus ride was a little annoying, it was neat to go through the mountains and forests on Lantau. That day was very very cloudy and the mountains were so high we drove up into the clouds. We were pretty happy once we got to the monastery since it had taken us about four hours to get there. Unfortunately, since it was so cloudy we could not see much. There were stairs that you had to walk up to get to the Buddha, but you couldn't see the top of the stair case. Once we got to the top, we could only see the outline of Buddha, but that in its self was neat. Inside the Big Buddha was a museum. It had all kinds of neat artwork but everything was explained in Chinese, so I have no idea what it actually was. We then walked back down to the monastery to get lunch. It was all vegetarian but very good. We explored the temple nearby for a little bit before deciding to head back down. We did not want to spend forever getting back to CUHK so we took the cable car. The cable car ride was actually a lot longer then I had expected, about 45 minutes. By that time it had gotten so cloudy that if another car was coming the other direction you could only see it for a couple of seconds, not to mention for the most part you couldn't see the ground. Near the end we descended enough to be outside of the clouds. We got a very high birds eye view of the Hong Kong Airport which was neat. Once we got back on the ground we took the train back to CUHK.

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Ocean Park

So this past week I have done basically just school work, which is why there hasn't been much to say. With that said, I decided to take a break from work and go to Ocean Park last Sunday. Ocean Park is an amusement park on the south side of Hong Kong Island. The theme is sea animals which they had mixed in with the rides. I went with Chase, Jennifer, Natalie, Matt, and his girlfriend who was visiting him from the states. The park is broken into two section, which are quite far from each other. In fact the only way to get between them is by bus or a long cable car ride. We arrived around noon so we got some hot dogs which I thought were decent for park food. The side of the park we started on was on the side of a mountain, so the main path was actually a huge escalator and everything overlooked the ocean. The first ride we all wanted to get on was a roller coaster called The Mine Ride. It was short and not that intense, maybe a step up from Cedar Point's Mine Ride, but it was built on the side of a step mountain so that was pretty neat. The awkward thing about the ride was that everything around was an American western theme, so it had "Mine Ride" painted on a wooden shed in an old western font. The problem was they also wrote it in Chinese which, I thought didn't quite work out to have the same feeling.

We then headed up to the top where there was a seal exhibit and watched seals play in the water for a while. The park mascot is a cartoon seal named Whiskers, so the seal exhibit was pretty large.

Next we went through a jellyfish exhibit. Inside the building it was very dark and they light up the tanks with different colors of light to highlight all the jellyfishes tentacles and blobs. It was more interesting for the artistic presentation then the jellyfishes themselves.

Afterwards, we rode The Dragon. This was an old steel roller coaster with several inversions. The track was very, very rough. I think it was the first roller coast that I have been on that had the station higher then the vast majority of the ride. The station was at the top of the mountain and the track was all down hill. The last part of the ride was actually a lift hill. It was pretty fun, but left most of our necks in pain.

We then waited for the dolphin show, which was packed. It was pretty good and actually had a mix of dolphins and seals. There was a story line with it. From what I gathered there was a little girl talking to her grandfather about how great it is that humans and sea animals can play together. The problem was most of the show was in Cantonese so I was lost most of the time.

Since time was starting to get short we got on the cable car to head to the other part of the park. This was a long chair lift ride that ran along the side of a very steep mountain. It was a somewhat foggy day so we could not see too far out, but the ride was so long we couldn't see the other end of the ride either so that left us with a bit of excitement.

The other side of the park is apparently the "main" part, but did not have that many rides. Chase and Matt tried some of the games but were very unsuccessful. After exploring that side for a while Matt and his girlfriend went back to the other side of the park because there was a couple of rides they wanted to get in before the park closed. The rest of use wanted to go see the panda house. There they have four pandas. Two of them were out that day and were actually quite active. They wondered around their artificial indoor environment, climbed trees, and ate bamboo. The lighting was really bad so I did not get very many good pictures, but it was a neat exhibit anyways. By that time the park was closing and it was getting late. We left and caught the bus back to central. It was a nice break from school work.

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Siem Reap: General Impressions

The food in Cambodia was amazing. Every Cambodian meal I had was delicious. They used a lot of meat and rice, like the Chinese, but it was prepared differently. Nothing was fired and the meat was always somewhat spicy. It was not spicy like curry, it was just a hint for flavor.

The roads in Cambodia were absolutely horrible. One or two roads around the Old French Quarter were somewhat decent, but outside of that, the newest major road was barely chip and seal. The road we took into the country side was what I assume to be a high way. The government had started work on improving it. Construction was even more unorganized then back in the States. There were no lanes blocked off by orange cones, just piles of gravel dumped haphazardly in the middle of the road. Everyone traveling on that road would just have to figure out how to get around it. Later down the road it turned to dirt. Interestingly enough, the Cambodian government still had a toll booth on the dirt road. Whether the road was "paved" or not did not improved the condition of the road for the most part. Driving was often slow because there were so many pot holes and other giant imperfections. No matter where you were, I don't think there was much rule of the road. I don't remember seeing any traffic signs or lines on the road. It was more or less free for all.

The Cambodian people seemed pretty nice (unless they were trying to get money out of you). Our driver, Tong, was very polite and helpful. In the restaurants, the waiters/waitresses seemed to enjoy interacting with customers. At one, the waiter thought Wes and Francesca were related. We thought this was humorous as they look nothing alike. Wes pointed out to the waiter that they even have different ancestral backgrounds. The waiter then took interest in the fact Americans have diverse backgrounds. When I told him I was Scottish and German he asked if I could speak Scottish. He seemed very disappointed and confused when I told him Scots speak English. And on the topic of language, everyone seemed to speak English pretty well. Most had only had a slight accent and rarely were we ever asked to reword our sentences into simpler phrases. Even the children were nice (except for the ones described below). If we passed them while they were playing they would often wave and say "Hello." In the markets the vendors were less aggressive then in China or even Hong Kong. However, out at the temples, the vendors act pretty desperate. Typically, you would tell a vendor "I already have one" to get them off your back (telling them you don't want it invites them to try to convince you otherwise). On a couple of occasions the vendors replied "But you haven't bought one from me!" A common thing all of them would do is ask "Where are you from?" When I replied that I was American, they would also list random facts such as the capital is Washington D.C., the biggest state is Alaska, etc. It was almost always in the same order too.

The corruption in Cambodia was pretty bad and became very apparent. Cambodia is a democracy with freedoms, but still carries the burden of corruption like most other developing nations. Tong would speak freely on the subject when we asked him. At the temples you need a license to give tours. However, there were plenty of people without license trying to give tours to people. They wouldn't ask for money until the very end. To do this, they have to pay off the police. The same goes for selling things at temples, you have to pay the police. On a couple occasions I even saw the police standing with the vendor (my guess either making sure he gets his cut or was being paid a little extra for protection). At the Bayon temple we even had a police officer try to give us a tour. They are pretty aggressive and often catch you if you try to sneak away. Fortunately, we managed to lose that police officer and did not run into him again.

Often times you would see kids selling stuff, mostly at the temples but some on the streets of Siem Reap. When I say kids, I mean easily under 10 years old an no supervision what so ever. They would have simple and small items like post cards, bracelets, fans, and magnets. They were just as aggressive, if not more, then the adult vendors. At Angkor Wat one little girl was very aggressive and followed me around while I was looking for where Tong parked. Like everyone else she asked me "Where are you from?" which after responding that I was from the States she very rapidly said all kinds of facts about the states. She ended with "Your President is Obama. You know Obama? I am his daughter. I am Sasha! You need postcards!" Fortunately at that point I finally found Tong and the little girl left with out me having to reply to such an odd argument. Another argument the kids would use, and use frequently, is that they have to pay off the police. Sadly this is true. I never found out if what the children were doing was technically illegal (it would certainly be for the parents if this was happening in the States) but law or no law they system would work the same. The police are underpaid and everyone wants money.

On the topic of money, the way currency is used in Cambodia (or at least Siem Reap, but I have a feeling it is the same in most parts of the country) is quite interesting. Cambodian current is called the riel and is US$1 to about 4,130 riel. I was looking forward to having to have over 100,000 in currency on me. However, when I got to Siem Reap, everything was quoted in US dollars. In fact, the ATMs only gave out US dollars. The visa and the tickets to the temples, both from the government, were paid for in American dollars. It was the preferred currency. Even though cash registers everywhere were full of American bills, the American coins were no where to be seen. So if there were ever cents involved (for example I got ice cream for US$1.50) the change was given in riel. Everyone just rounded US$0.25 to 1,000 riel. By the end of my trip, I was used to using two different currencies in the same transaction.

The poverty in Siem Reap was pretty bad, or at least it seemed to us Americans. There were a lot of shacks. The poorest were out in the country side. Tong said that if we wanted to see poor people we would have to drive about 80km out of the city (he didn't think those living in shacks in the city were poor, he called them "normal"). The area around the river was the poorest we saw, and it was pretty poor. When we got off the boat a small group of children started to follow us. There were a couple adults not too far away yelling at them, and each time they yelled the children got more aggressive for money. One little girl seemed rather shy and didn't say anything. She just pointed to the empty water bottle I was carrying. I noticed she had a bag full of empty plastic bottles. I handed it to her and she seemed pretty happy. There was one little boy who kept asking for money. After we got in the car, he banged on the window asking for one dollar. Despite the depressing first impression, we did see a lot of hope. At one point we ventured out of the Old French Quarter to see what the typical life was for a local. There was a surprising amount of development hidden from the main road. There were apartment buildings (granted no where near the standard we are used to, but significantly better then a dirt floor). Schools were also everywhere. Even in the floating village, the most common building (aside from a house) was a school. Friday was the only school day we were there and the schools we saw open were overflowing with children. Cambodians are definitely eager to develop and are making progress on that front.

Siem Reap: Day Four

Our flight left Siem Reap at 8:30AM in the morning. We had Tong take us to the airport. There was only one other flight that morning so we got through check in, paying the departure tax (which cost more then the visa), and security pretty quickly. We got into Kuala Lumpur at 11:30AM and our connecting flight to Hong Kong did not leave until late afternoon. So we decided to get lunch at the Petronas Towers. On the way there my camera died so I have no pictures, but the two towers were very beautiful. On the way there we also pasted vary large and beautiful looking mosques. At the base of the towers was a very modern mall. I found the environment inside very interesting. It was a mix of Western and Islamic culture. Most women were wearing head scarves, yet in the center of the mall was a big promotional demonstration for make-up in perfect English. We found a Malaysian restaurant to have a quick lunch in. I had some sort of shredded beef which was one of the best meals I have ever had. The seasoning and spices they used gave it a very unique and delicious taste. Afterwards we headed back to the airport and caught our flight back to Hong Kong. Most of the day was spent traveling but the quick stop at the Petronas Towers was well worth it. It was too bad we didn't have a whole day to explore Kuala Lumpur.

Siem Reap: Day Three

We woke up very early at 4:30AM. Tong picked us up outside our hostel at 5 so that we could go to Angkor Wat for the sunrise. We bought tickets for the day which got us into not only Angkor Wat but pretty much all the other ruins in the area. We were dropped off at the ancient bridge that goes over the moat. We were told to walk about a kilometer and then find a high place to watch the sun rise. Since it was completely dark (they had no lights what so ever in the are) we had to guess where we were going. Once we got across the bridge we had to go through the gate which meant we had to go inside the wall for a while. It was kind of cool wondering around ancient ruins in the pitch dark (also a big tricky since there were a lot of steps involved). We made it to an area we thought was good for watching the sunrise but as soon as the light started coming up we moved around a lot to see it from different angles. There is really no way to describe it, pictures are the closest thing to doing it.

After the sun was up we went back to town for a quick breakfast and then came back to Angkor Wat to wonder around for a few hours. I don't know if there is much to say other then to look at the pictures. The temple had been modified several times and damaged in various wars from the time it was built to the Cambodian revolution just a few decades ago. Originally it was a Hindu temple but then it was converted to a Buddhist temple some years later.

The next place we went to was Angkor Thom. This was the ancient capital of the Khmer Empire. Angkor Wat was the major temple for the city (angkor means "city," wat means "temple"). Inside the walls of Angkor Thom were all kinds of other temples and ruins. The first temple we went to was the Bayon Temple. It had 54 towers (for the 54 provinces of the Khmer Empire) but several have since fallen down. It was a Buddhist temple and each tower had 4 unique Buddha faces each facing a different direction. After wondering around for a bit, Wes decided to go back to the hostel while Francesca and I looked around Angkor Thom some more. We saw the Baphuon Temple, which was a Buddhist temple they were working on reconstructing. Several decades ago, they took it all part to study it in depth and then do a good job reconstructing it. The problem is that while it was all in pieces, civil war broke out and the documents explaining how to put it back together were destroyed. So now progress is really slow and out side there are rows and rows of stone blocks they have no idea where to put. Next to that was the Elephant Terrace which was a big stone platform used by the public to watch public events such as parades. It was quite long and had many carvings (mostly of elephants) all along the edge. Then, on the end of that ruin was the Leopard Terrace. They believe it was used as a crematorium and the statue on top was for the god of death. The last thing Fransesca and I looked at in Angkor Thom was a series of 12 identical towers used as a prison. We then found Tong in the market near by to drive us down the road to see other places.

The next temple we went to was the Ta Prohm Temple. This was a Buddhist temple that was completely taken over by the jungle. It was also used in the filming of the movie "Tomb Raider." The temple was very interesting. A large portion of it was destroyed and many hallways were blocked off. Giant trees were growing on the temple, often up on top of the roof and their roots would flow over the side of the stone like waterfalls. Just down the road was the Banteay Kdei temple which was another Buddhist temple. It was an interesting temple, but nothing that unique. By this time Francesca and I were exhausted and had Tong take us back to the hostel. There we rested and got dinner at a small little place just down the road. Again it was very very good.

At 7PM we went to a concert performed by a Swiss doctor, Dr. Beat Richner, known by his stage name Beatocello (he plays the cello). Dr. Richner has worked at helping Cambodian children since the 1970s. In the 90's he started building children's hospitals which are now located in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. He plays every weekend to try to help raise money for his cause. 10% of the hospital's budget comes from Switzerland, 3% from Cambodia, and the rest come from donations. They cover all Cambodian children of free (including operations and medication) and never turn any away. He also insists on keeping the hospital up to Western standards. Over the past couple of decades his hospitals have reduced child mortality rates by about 90%. Dr. Richner was an interesting guy with a sense of humor but some how found himself being political near the end (which he claims he tries to avoid because the Chinese tend to get upset).

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